Bhujori
Bhujori is a village which is around 20 km from bhuj in Kutch.
It took us around 30 min to reach the village.
The village is like any other village in India
on the road, one needs to either walk through or take
same local conveniences like auto rickshaw, chagra or a times
even camel cart to reach inside the village.
This takes around 10 min.
Reaching bhujori was easy but once we were in
Bhujori we had several other worries and curiosities
about the kind of place, people, sanitation and the most
important was communication problem which
we had faced earlier during our previous field visits
to the local gujrati villages, since none of us gujrati.
We went to an auto wala and asked him to take
us to some dhabla shawl weaver .and he left us in front
of a house which was on the road.
On entering the house, we saw spacious
courtyard, surrounding which were several rooms.
The varanda is made of locally available white clay
and cow dung.
Inside the compound, they had separate rooms for there living as well as for keeping the ready stock for
sale and for keeping raw material, like, wool, cotton and silk.
Beside these they have cattle area, mostly the village
rear cattle’s like cow, goat and sheep.
Goat and sheep are reared by the rabaries.
First we went to the shop room where customer can
visit to buy dhabla. Inside the shop we met the care
taker shri. Rajesh Bhai. We introduced our shelves and
told him the reason of our arrival . He told us to wait
in the shop itself and he went out side.
Meanwhile we take a look on the different products in
the shop to gather an idea about dhabla.
They had made various products using extra weft
pattering in weaving, like shawls, blanket
Bags, cushioncovers, stoles, mufflers, etc.Rajesh bhai introduced us to his father the Head
weaver of the family, Sri Vankar Vishram Valji . And that’s how we got an opportunity to know the history of bhujori as well as about dhabla.History
Vishram ji Bhai told us that bhujori village is more ancient than the town bhuj.
There community i.e the Vunkar community, which is
right now weaving dabla, is originally from Rajasthan where they were called Meghwal.
Then Vishram ji narrated us the whole story of how this migration happened.
According to him the Meghwal community in rajesthan were great followers of shri Ram Dev PirJi. Once Ram Dev Pir Ji came to kutch and that motivated the meghwals to follow him.
This is how for the first time meghwal come to kutch.but slowly, besides religion, trade also become another reason for the meghwal to give frequent visits to kutch. This vunkar community realized that kutchi villages badlly need weavers as there was no weaver community in kutch at that time.
Rabbaries are mainly sheep
rearers and Ahir’s are the people
of lower caste.
Rabaries are master’s in
embroidery but lack the
knowledge of weaving, so this is
how the vunkar from Rajasthan
got good job of weaving in these
villages and slowly settled here.
Initially it is said that the rabbari
women used to rear the wool
from the local sheep.
while sitting idle in there houses,
they used to spin wool.
They used to give ready shawls to rabbari women,
they finely stitches the two parts together.
The dhabla traditionally had very few color’s i.e. white
black, maroon and brown at times.
Earlier only natural dyeing used to happen.
The body was predominantly white, while black and
maroon extra weft pattering and at times warp wise border with a black and maroon used to
happen most of the times the patterning was very
less. Traditional dhabla was very heavy .For
blankets they used 2 ply yarn and for shawl single ply
is used.
It is said that the rabaries men used to drape the shawl tightly and the weaving used to be so tight that even water doesn’t penetrate during rainfall. Men used to wear dhabla throughout the day. For women these shawls were called “luri”.
It is of single ply and were relatively lighter, predominantly black in color and lesser extra weft pattering than dhabla. It is mainly of plain weave. The rabbaries themselves used to do elaborate adornment by using bhandni .They make red dots on black body then they used to do extensive embroidery over it.
These luri were used by newly wed. Young girls
eligible for marriage used to embroider luri for
themselves, they do lots of mirror work, thread work.
Luri’s were longer than dhabla since women used to drape it around themselves like sarees, its length is
around 130 inches and width of 48 inches.
Traditionally the loom width used to vary from
24 inch-26inch.
Even today the rabari women do their traditional embroidery works which another popular craft
happening in the village .
Name of the embroideries are
> Ahir
> Muthva
> Sankari
> Kantha
> Chari
> Lace work
> Mirror work
> Appliqué,
Dhabla woven for ahir community were more
colored. they had 7 colors like, red. Black rust, pink,
orange, green, blue, black.
It was only after the year 1965 bhujori
gained fame for its craftand the credit goes to
At the request of the craft sang manager of gujrat
prabha Ben shah from Bombay
Mr.Tripari Baiwas Mrs. Prabha Ben came to kutch and
saw this amazing craft happening, She made weavers realize that this craft has much
more potential to grow and not just a tool of
fulfilling the domestic need of the village.
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| Lizard on a dung cake |
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| Dhabla |
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| Weaving of dhabla |
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| Dhabla Shwal (100 % Wool) |
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| Daily routine of a village women |
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| House wall decorated with mirrors and mud. |
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| Interior of Kutch houses |
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| Embroidery |
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| Embroidery done by Rabbari women |
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| Rabbari Women |
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| A common view at Bhulori ( Warping Process) |
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